H. Billiot & Fils is a small Champagne “grower-producer” cellar from Ambonnay, one of the “grand cru” villages of Montagne de Reims to the southeast of Reims. Champagne from this region is generally made from Pinot Noir, as Henri Billiot generally does too, but his non-vintage Cuvèe Laetitia is primarily made from Chardonnay with a small percentage of Pinot Noir added for body. Cuvèe Laetitia Brut is named after Mssr. Billiot’s daughter, Laetitia. And if she is like her namesake Champagne, his daughter Laetitia must be lovely, effervescent, and quite charming. It is pale straw in the flute with playful rivulets of tight bubbles. Dry with a complex structure of lemony citrus, notes of flint, fresh biscuits, a creamy texture, and lengthy finish. Delicate and invigorating, Laetitia stands up as an aperitif as well as a pleasant companion to shellfish, fish, and poultry with dinner.

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Producer: Greg Norman Estates
Wine: Sparkling
Vintage: NV
Appellation: Southeast Australia
Country: Australia
Wine Type: Sparkling
Varietal: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Grade: A-
Designation: Good and Cheap
Price: $13

Point One: Trying to find a impressively high quality/price ratio sparkling wine is like finding a needle in a haystack, well, maybe not that difficult but you get the point. I figure the right man for the job is the shark himself, Mr. Greg Norman. Now that is a golfer than knows his wine, well, at least sparkling wine that is.

Point Two: When I think of quality sparkling wines, Australia is not the first country I think of, unless of course, I'm thinking sparkling Shiraz.

This is a very well made sparkler showing toasted yeasty notes and a creamy texture. The wine is a blend of classic champagne grapes 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir displaying apple cider, ripe pear and pineapple notes. Paired with sunflower seed and carrot encrusted grouper with a soy ginger sauce, jasmine rice and Asian eggplant with a sweet-sour glaze.

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Producer: Champagne Philipponnant
Wine: Royale Rèserve Brut
Vintage: NV
Country: France
Appellation: Champagne
Wine Type: Sparkling
Varietal: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and bit of Pinot Meunier
Grade: B+
Designation: Must Drink
Price: $36

Champagne has many similarities to sex. When it’s good, it’s great. When it’s great, it’s an out of the body experience. The two do diverge however when it’s bad. When Champagne is bad, it’s awful. On the other hand, when sex is bad, it can still be pretty good. Philipponnant’s Royale Rèserve is of the first kind, it’s good, which means it’s great. This non-vintage Brut is bright, fruity, and delicate that glissades down the throat as smooth as a bubbly ballerina on ice. Philipponant’s traditional cuvée blends a minimum of twenty-five Champagne crus using reserve wines from several vintages. It’s pale gold in the flute with conga lines of bubbles streaming to the surface creating a vivacious mousse. This is a full-bodied Champagne with red fruit flavors, tangy lime, mineral essences, and doughy bread fresh from the oven. It’s supple, creamy textured, and exudes sophistication and sensuality. So, is it good or great? Well, as any astute French existentialist would say, “It is what it is.”

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