Producer: Chateau Pince-Guerre
Wine: Monbazillac
Vintage: 1998
Country: France
Appellation: Monbazillac
Wine Type: Dessert
Primary Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle
Grade: B
Designation: Excellent Value
Price: $13.50/750 ml

Review:
Location, location, location. That little word means just as much in southwestern France as it does on the slick streets of New York City. Which is exactly where I found this wine one night as I raced, late of course, to a dinner party in Tribeca. I was meant to be in charge of dessert, but my favorite Brooklyn bakery had closed its doors early that night and I decided that if you can’t have cake, dessert wine is the next best thing, and wine shops always stay open later than bakeries anyway.

I think it’s sad that Monbazillac never gets the attention that we lavish on its wealthier cousin, Sauternes. To be honest, there are valid reasons: Monbazillac is located in Bergerac instead of fancy Bordeaux (remember what I said about location?), its permitted yields are higher, and frankly, the name is a lot harder to pronounce for non-Francos. It’s important to remember, however, that the grapes here are the same as in Sauternes – Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle. As well, botrytis (that invaluable fungus that pokes holes in tender grape skins and lets the water evaporate, leaving only tasty grape sugars behind) runs just as rampant in Monbazillac as it does in Sauternes thanks to the moist environment provided by the river Dordogne. And need I mention value? A good Monbazillac goes for just a fraction of the price of an average Sauternes – don’t be afraid to skip the power of name brand here.

In the glass, this wine is a deep amber-honey color with very high viscosity – no wonder, there’s a lot of sugar here. Honey and apricots on the nose, nutmeg, vanilla – almost smells like you’re about to eat the intended cake after all. The palate is lacking somewhat in acidity, knocking off the overall balance of the wine, but the stone fruits and lush brown sugar flavours follow through to a long finish. Tasty, good value and I’d drink this wine in place of cake any day.

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